As we near the completion of The French Laundry remodel, the concept of evolution is top of mind. A state-of-the-art, modern design has come to life adjacent to the historic building that still houses the original dining room. From a simple beginning, The French Laundry continues to grow and evolve. The two designs, side by side, are a symbol of where we have been and where we are going.
Chef Keller is not the only chef to reflect on the evolution of his restaurant or his career in this issue of Finesse. Via Russ Parsons, chefs including Jessica Koslow of Los Angeles’s Sqirl and David Tunis of The New York Times (and formerly of Chez Panisse) detail the surprising turns in their professional journeys. Gavin Kaysen of Spoon and Stable in Minneapolis and Curtis Duffy of Grace in Chicago—the latter through documentary filmmaker Kevin Pang—provide insight into the culinary home they have each found after years of searching for just that.
From Peter Sagal’s personal journey through learning to cook to William Hereford and Olga Grigorenko’s intimate homage to a family meal to John Mariani’s comprehensive review of the cuisine of the United States, we examine how evolution over time can be traced through food and cooking outside the professional kitchen.
Other contributors include Josh Sens, Craig Dykers and Michael Ruhlman.